Explain the style characteristics, development and application points of semi-worsted knitting yarns

Source / Hangzhou Textile

Editor / Cotton Textile Technology New Media - Zhao Jicheng

As the variety of knitted yarns is expanded from the original single-fiber pure spinning or simple blending to various blends of natural fibers and chemical fibers, semi-worsted yarns have gradually become a new force in the knitting market, and this is also true. Semi-worsted knitting yarns place higher demands.

1. Requirements for semi-worsted knitting yarns

The quality and performance of knitted products depend on the properties of the knitted yarn, the structure of the knitted fabric, dyeing and finishing. Among them, the performance of knitting yarn is the main factor affecting the performance of knitted products. Therefore, the use of knitted products is different, and the requirements for yarns are different. That is to say, different types of knitted garments have different requirements for the required yarns. This individualized requirement can be understood as: the style requirement of the knitting yarn, and the yarns of different knitwear require different styles of the yarn; The quality requirements of the yarn, the structure of the different knitted fabrics and the weaving process require different yarn quality. Therefore, the development and production of semi-worsted knitting yarns guarantees the style and quality to meet the needs of the products.

1.1, the style requirements of semi-worsted knitting yarn

The development of semi-worsted knitwear products, first of all, is the positioning of the product style, that is, what kind of knit fabrics are used, and what kind of knit yarns are needed. If the style of the yarn is not properly positioned, the yarn of the best quality is unsuccessful.

Knitwear has different styles and uses, and the knitting yarns used are different. For example, most of the yarns used in underwear knitwear are blended yarns such as cotton, silk and high-branched wool; the raw materials of hosiery products are cotton yarn, wool and chemical fiber; the woolen sweaters mainly use blended yarns such as cashmere, wool, acrylic and nylon. The main raw materials for knitted outerwear are wool, polyester, nylon, acrylic and blended yarns and new textile materials (such as tencel fiber, differentiated fiber) and so on. The component of the raw material may be a pure spun yarn containing only one type of fiber or a blended yarn of two or more types. In addition, the emergence of new raw materials such as chemical fiber shaped fibers, composite fibers, especially ultra-fine fibers, has opened up new avenues for knitting yarns.

1.2, the quality requirements of semi-worsted knitting yarn

The criteria for yarn quality evaluation: one is the quality index parameter, and the other is the physical quality based on the cloth surface defect. However, the sampled samples are often only a certain number of samples. Semi-worsted yarns are mostly high-grade, high-priced, small-volume, all in the form of orders, and are mostly color-spun yarns. The products are finished products. Now users pay more attention to physical quality. However, there is no uniform standard for physical quality, which varies with the user's use. Therefore, sometimes the quality index meets the advanced level of yarn, but the physical quality may not be satisfactory. The mill can't stick to the quality index parameters, apply more energy to grasp the customer's individual needs for quality and try to meet.

The individualized quality requirements of semi-worsted knitting yarns are determined by the organization and weaving process of different knitted products. The organizational structure is different, and the equipment and process for weaving production are different. Generally, semi-worsted yarns should have the following requirements:

1.2.1, the appearance of the fabric should be uniform

Knitwear is increasingly demanding the appearance and flatness of the fabric surface, so the uneven appearance of the yarn for knitting is more important. However, since semi-worsted yarns are mostly multi-component blended products, sometimes some products have good yarn dryness indexes, but after finishing, there will be unevenness of the fabric surface, and the perspective fabric surface is clear and uniform. The reason is that the yarn is blended with multi-component fibers during the twisting process. Some fibers have different mechanical properties such as length and fineness. Some fibers have a larger difference after dyeing, which may cause some uneven distribution, which may cause yarn. The diameter of the wire varies, but the number of fibers and the weight of the cross section of the yarn may not differ much. After the woven fabric is post-finished, different morphological changes or displacements occur between the fibers. It directly reflects the appearance of the cloth and the flatness and flatness are not ideal.

The difference in the diameter of the blended yarn is more sensitive in the detection of the blackboard. When the strip is unevenly detected by the capacitive type, the difference in the dielectric constant of the two or more types of fibers is not uniform. The combined result of uneven mixing with the fiber. Compared with white yarn, the semi-worsted mixed yarn has a large difference in fiber dielectric constant, and the test value of the capacitive strip dryer tends to be large. Sometimes the true change in the yarn strands cannot be accurately reflected.

1.2.2, should have a lower break rate under dynamic tension

When the yarn is woven into a loop on the knitting machine, it is in a high-speed motion state, and there is an enclosing angle between the yarn and the loop forming machine, the knitting needle, the sinker, etc., thereby causing the yarn to generate a large tension at the turning point, which is The main reason for the break. The dynamic strength of the yarn under friction conditions is much lower than the static strength. Broken yarns can cause knitwear and reduce productivity. Therefore, the static strong elongation test cannot be objectively used as an index for evaluating the yarn weaving performance, so it is necessary to pay attention to the yarn strength index under dynamic tension.

After the fiber is dyed, it will suffer some damage; the fiber is brittle or the coarseness of the yarn is unevenly distributed, which makes the yarn easy to break under dynamic tension conditions. This is the production and development of semi-worsted yarn. One of the issues that should be taken seriously.

1.2.3, control of sporadic veils

Semi-worsted yarns place more emphasis on physical quality, especially for higher value yarns. However, semi-worsted yarns sometimes have more occasional yarn defects, and the occasional yarn defects of semi-worsted yarns are often not easily controlled.

The occasional yarn defect is directly related to the production efficiency of the subsequent process, the quality of the woven piece and the authenticity rate of the woven piece. The control of sporadic veils is a systematic project. In the production, it is necessary to carry out in-depth analysis on the mechanism of its yarn crepe according to the characteristics of different varieties. It is targeted to take measures to reduce the yarn defect and configure high-quality electricity. Clear for effective removal.

1.2.4, static control

Semi-worsted knitting yarns are moving at high speed on a knitting machine, constantly rubbing against the looping mechanism, and in such high-speed rubbing motion, static electricity is easily generated. Moreover, the semi-worsted knitting yarn is color-spun, and after some materials are dyed, the static phenomenon is very serious. Especially for some chemical fiber raw materials, the oil agent is treated after being dyed, and the electrostatic phenomenon is more serious, which causes the resistance to be large in the knitting production, the broken ends, the yarns to fluff, and the fibers wound on the yarn body are piled into balls, and the texture is not clear. Life is not good.

1.2.5, should have less flying loss

In the process of forming a semi-worsted yarn, the loss of flying flowers will be caused. The flying flowers will cause the moving parts of the machine to be contaminated, which will affect the movement of the parts (such as knitting needles), resulting in damage to the parts and crepe. Therefore, the yarn loss rate of the yarn is also an indicator for evaluating the braidability of the knitting yarn. In the production, the high-speed moving yarn under constant tension can be detected by the loss of the flying flower after a certain length, and the good knitting yarn should have a low loss rate.

1.2.6, should have a stable quality

Fluctuations in quality ultimately affect the consistency of the quality of the knitwear, so it is necessary to maintain the stability of the quality indicators within the batch. If the indicators are found to have signs of trend change, it is necessary to take timely technical measures or rational adjustment of raw materials. In the production, proofing and trial weaving shall be carried out. After confirmation, the corresponding internal control standards shall be worked out and mass production shall be carried out to avoid economic losses caused by quality deviation.

1.2.7, the yarn should have a reasonable twist

In general, the knitting yarn has a lower twist than the woven yarn. The twist of the yarn for the circular machine is generally greater than the twist of the yarn for the flat knitting machine; the twist coefficient of the coarse yarn is generally slightly smaller than the twist coefficient of the fine yarn, and the twist design of the spring and summer clothing yarn is generally higher than that of the autumn and winter clothing. The design of the twist is larger. If the twist is too large, the softness of the yarn is poor, it is not easy to be bent and twisted during weaving, and it is easy to cause kinks to cause woven woven fabric, which causes damage to the knitting needle; in addition, the excessively large yarn affects the elasticity of the knitted fabric. And the coil is skewed. However, the twist of the knitting yarn should not be too low, otherwise the strength will be affected, the weaving break will be increased, and the yarn will be more bulky to cause the fabric to pilling and reduce the wearing performance of the knitted fabric. Therefore, accurate selection of twist is an important way to develop knitting yarn. Knitting products are used differently, and the twist requirements should be different.

2. Advantages of semi-worsted yarns in the use of knitwear

Semi-worsted yarns are mostly multi-component blended products with a variety of fiber advantages. As far as the current wool knitted products are concerned, the addition of semi-worsted products has largely broken the limitation of sweaters with combed and carded knitwear products, enriching the development of wool knitwear, in style and Performance also makes up for some of the traditional deficiencies.

2.1, the different performance advantages of a variety of fibers complement each other, learn from each other

Yarns spun from different combinations of fibers have the properties and style of a variety of fibers, and can also complement each other in the spinning process. The yarn quality is improved and the fancy variety is also increased.

For example, the biggest advantage of wool fiber is that it has good hygroscopicity, fluffiness, good elasticity and good thermal insulation. The biggest defects are poor wrinkle resistance, poor dimensional stability of garments, and easy deformation. The biggest defects of synthetic fiber are poor hygroscopicity, serious static electricity and poor wearing comfort. However, the dimensional stability and durability of the garments are good. Therefore, the wool can be blended with fibers such as acrylic fiber and nylon, and the garments show both wool and The performance and style of synthetic fibers.

2.2, unique style, personalized, able to meet the needs of different knitwear

Spring and summer knitting yarns have different style requirements for autumn and winter knitting yarns. The former requirements focus on smooth, moisture-absorbing and breathable, and comfortable to wear. The latter's requirements focus on warmth, fluffy and flexible, blending with a variety of fibers to meet this style, and to meet the needs of different knitwear. If a single fiber is used, it is sometimes difficult to achieve the desired style.

Such as: flax fiber pure spinning or simple blended yarn, generally used for spring and summer knitting yarn, rarely used as autumn and winter knitting yarn, but can be successfully used in autumn and winter knitwear through a variety of fiber blends. Unique style. For example, our company has developed the “Linen/Wool/Silk/Tiansi” semi-worsted knitting yarn, which uses finely woven linen fiber and knitted yarn blended with silk, Tencel and fine wool. It fully reflects the excellentness of various fibers, compensates for the lack of performance of various fibers, eliminates the rough feeling of hemp yarn, and has good gloss, bright color, soft hand feeling, fluffiness, good elasticity and good overall performance. In particular, yarns such as hair loss, anti-pilling and anti-ball are superior to similar products and have been favored by customers.

2.3, overcome the defects of some single raw material varieties, improve the wearability of ready-to-wear

Blending the poorly-administrated fiber with the fiber that is taken well can improve the performance of the ready-to-wear. For example, a semi-worsted yarn of purely high-strength rare animal fiber, the strength is low, and the garment is easy to cause holes, but Blended with fibers such as silk, the yarn strength is significantly improved, the wear resistance and durability of the garment can be improved, and even blended with nylon or other synthetic fibers, the wear resistance and durability are more desirable.

2.4, improve the difficulty of some fiber pure spinning, improve the quality of the yarn

Due to the large dispersion of natural fiber and fineness, the strength of single fiber is low. It is easy to produce short velvet in semi-worsted production, especially color spinning. There are more unstable factors in production, and it can pass other fibers. Blended to improve the spinnability of the fiber and improve the quality and quality of the yarn. Moreover, the number of spun yarns can be greatly improved, and a thin, high-grade knitted fabric can be developed. For example, semi-worsted yarns of wool or hemp are difficult to spun and have insufficient quality. However, some silk, regenerated cellulose fibers or synthetic fibers can be added to improve the spinnability of the fibers and increase the number of spinnable fibers.

In addition, some fiber combinations have serious electrostatic phenomena during spinning, and the production is unstable. It can be blended with other oppositely charged fibers or fibers with lower specific resistance to improve the spinnability of the fiber and achieve stable production. purpose. For example: rabbit wool fiber pure spinning or high proportion blending, the electrostatic phenomenon is serious in semi-worsted production, sometimes it may not be able to produce normally, adding 10-20% cotton or other cellulose fiber can alleviate static phenomenon and increase spinnability It can also increase the cohesion of rabbit hair fibers and reduce hair loss.

2.5, improve the cost performance of knitted products

Blending high-priced fibers with low-priced fibers can reduce the cost of yarns, while expanding the use of high-priced fibers to make high-end fibers civilian. For example: 85/15 silk cashmere, the price is relatively high, the amount is small, and most of them are exported. Therefore, we design 75 silk / 25 cotton / velvet, greatly reducing the cost of the yarn, and the style of the yarn is similar to the original, achieving a two-pronged effect, expanding the use of velvet products, welcomed by customers. .

At present, semi-worsted textiles mostly use a combination of multiple components, which has higher added value than traditional products, especially new functional fibers or fibers added after treatment with new processes, such as antibacterial, deodorant, UV resistant and some Nano materials, etc., make the yarn colorful, complete style, and higher added value.

3. Understand some problems in semi-worsted yarns

The development and application of new semi-worsted knitting yarns should correctly and objectively understand and understand the defects of semi-worsted yarns and the difficulties in the production process. There are still some difficulties in the production of semi-worsted yarns, and some semi-worsted yarns still have some defects. Such as: hairiness, color difference, color point, spinnability, hair loss, hair ball and other issues, among which hairiness, color difference, color point, spinnability, etc. after years of continuous research and exploration, can be avoided or can be effectively controlled . The hair balls and hair loss are indeed important defects in some semi-worsted yarns. Understanding of these two defects:

(1) These defects are not all semi-worsted yarns, but are easily found on a small type of semi-worsted yarn.

(2) Most of these defects are relative to worsted, which is much better for woollen spinning.

(3) Different manufacturers have different degrees of defects due to process technology, equipment, raw materials and so on. This is a technical issue, not inherent to the semi-worsted yarn itself.

Now the production of semi-worsted yarns is not only woolen, but has been developed into various types of textile fibers. After several years of development, everyone has the properties of various textile fibers, the main points of the spinning process and the characteristics of the products. Have a deep understanding. Semi-worsted is the result of the development of new products by woolen textile companies and is a new type of spinning system. The product is between the worsted and the roving and is close to the worsted product. The quality index and appearance of the yarn are basically similar to those of worsted. For some semi-worsted varieties, the physical indicators (including hair balls and hair loss) are not ideal. The reasons for their occurrence should be actively studied, the factors affecting them should be analyzed, and the optimization process should be taken to control these problems within an acceptable range. Inside.

4. Development of semi-worsted knitting yarns

Developing new yarns is about developing a new style. As long as the style changes, it is a new product for knitting products. The main factors affecting the style of semi-worsted yarn are as follows:

4.1. Combination of different raw materials to produce different styles of semi-worsted knitting yarn

Each textile material has its own unique properties. Different combinations of the yarns give different styles and performance of the yarn. When developing semi-worsted yarns, we must first understand the properties and internal and external appearance of various textile materials. The function is to match the fiber with similar performance or compensating type. It can also meet the individual requirements of semi-worsted yarn by using functional fiber, new fiber or traditional fiber treated by new process.

4.2. Producing different styles of semi-worsted knitting yarns with different twists

The same fiber combination, with different twists, the style effect of the yarn is different. The yarn twist is mainly determined by the style requirements of the development of the end product. That is, what kind of clothing should be produced, what kind of yarn twist should be. Generally, the twist of the yarn for knitting is smaller than the twist of the yarn for weaving; the twist of the yarn for the circular machine is generally greater than the twist of the yarn for the flat knitting machine; the twist coefficient of the coarse yarn is generally slightly smaller than the twist coefficient of the fine yarn, and the knitting is generally spring and summer. The design of the yarn twist is greater than that of the autumn and winter knitting yarn.

In addition, special yarns can be used to develop special yarns, such as special strong twist yarns. Therefore, in the development and design of yarn technical parameters, it is first necessary to understand its use in order to produce yarns that are reasonable, qualified and suitable for individual requirements.

Furthermore, it is also possible to develop a unique style of yarn using a different combination of a single cymbal and a double cymbal.

4.3, different yarns show different styles

For the same kind of product, different yarn branch deviations or yarn branch deviations will produce different style effects in the same fabric, especially for wool products with fluffing properties. For example, 70/30 wool/nylon, 23.5/2 and 24.5/2 semi-worsted yarns have different hand feels, styles and physical indexes in the same weaving process.

At the same time, the deviation of the yarn branch or the deviation of the yarn branch will also affect the quality of the machine of the downstream enterprise, the smoothness of the weaving, the quality of the finished product and the flatness of the fabric. Therefore, the development of new knitting yarns should be matched with downstream companies to achieve the best results.

4.4 Different yarn spinning techniques show different yarn styles

Some varieties of raw materials, different types of equipment (the same equipment is only different models) or different types of equipment different production processes, will also produce different yarn style, because different types of equipment or different production processes, will It affects the movement state of the fiber in the cross section of the yarn, and changes the distribution state of the fiber in the yarn, resulting in different styles of the yarn.

4.5. Development of different styles of knitting yarns in different spinning formats

Using modern new spinning technology such as air spinning, siro spinning, compact spinning, cable spinning, etc., we produce yarns with special requirements such as anti-pilling, hairiness, stem, body and hair. The individual needs of the customer, because different spinning mechanisms produce different yarn structures, different yarn structures give different properties to the yarn, and different yarn properties bring different styles and properties to the knitted fabric. The use of a new type of spinning to produce yarns of different constructions can achieve twice the result with half the effort.

4.6, the combination of colors produces different color styles

The color spinning process is a major feature of the semi-worsted production process. In particular, the appearance of the knurled yarn makes the chromatogram of the knitting yarn more complete, and the color effect which can not be achieved by the dyeing of the squeegee can be spun. Moreover, the same fiber combination and the same shade of yarn have different color combinations and different color styles and effects.

Such as: 85/15 cotton / velvet, if the color is black, the composition is about 10% light gray, then this 10% black is dyed cotton or dyed cashmere, it will produce completely different color style effect, if it is more than three components The variety, and the mechanical properties of these fibers are quite different, it will produce more color effects.

Therefore, when designing the color combination, attention should be paid to the performance of the raw materials, and the law of the fiber in the radial direction of the yarn in the blended yarn should be mastered, and the yarn should be outdated to the outer layer fiber style. Including the transfer law in the spinning process and the transfer law in the finishing.

In addition, different types of knitting yarns should be mastered, and the color style requirements should be different, such as the same fiber combination, coarse and fine knitting yarn, inner and outer knitting yarn, etc., its color style and effect. The focus is different, to be different.

4.7, different finishing will produce different style effects

The development of knitting yarns is finally reflected in the style of the products. The semi-worsted yarns of the same variety can be developed into different styles of knitted garments through different finishing techniques, especially for wool products. Semi-worsted products should be developed together with downstream enterprises to understand and grasp the style requirements of downstream enterprises, so as to achieve the best style and performance of the products.

5 Conclusion

The semi-worsted product solves the technical problems that traditional worsted and woollen fabrics cannot be solved separately. It has the characteristics of fine, sturdy and dry strips of worsted fabrics, and at the same time has the characteristics of high elasticity and rich fluff of woollen fabrics. The development and application of knitted fabrics have made the product structure extremely rich, which not only meets environmental requirements, but also improves the comfort and performance of wearing. It can be predicted that the market for semi-worsted yarns will become larger and larger.

PS: Tucao comment Xiaobian is the move

(Looking over the mountains and pulling down the comments, there are surprises)

Cotton Textile Technology New Media (micro signal: mfzjsxcm)

Please be sure to indicate the source

© Cotton Textile Technology New Media (ID: mfzjsxcm)

Poke the original text , speed to understand the registration of the 2016 Xinjiang seminar ! !

Hoodie

It will make you very cool and fashionable,


We use very soft fabric and it's very easy to clean

SHAOXING LIDONG TRADING CO.,LTD , https://www.suejiangarments.com